Morocco is the tantalising lower lip on the mouth of the Mediterranean Sea, a Muslim land so rich in mystique it seems to hover like a magic carpet somewhere between myth and reality. Tangier, Casablanca, Marrakesh...just the names of these cities and towns should stir a hint of spice in the nostrils of the most geographically challenged. Many Moroccan destinations have been mythologised, and for good reason, but the more jaded traveller may well moan about the extinction of the `real' Morocco. Still others will extol the country's unique living history, its shimmering light, its art.
Morocco is the ideal starting point for the traveller to Africa. An easy hop from Europe, it can be a friendly, hectic and stimulating place to get around in. Open-air markets throughout the country are piled high with rugs, woodwork, and jewellery.

Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Kingdom of Morocco
Area: 447,000 sq km
Population: 29 million
Capital city: Rabat
People: 55% Arab, 44% Berber, 0.7% foreigners, 0.2% Jews
Languages: Arabic (officially) with Berber dialects, as well as French, Spanish and English.
Religion: Islam
Government: Constitutional monarchy
Head of State: King Mohammed VI

Environment Spectacularly diverse, Morocco combines sand, sea and snow in a way that Club Med developers could only dream about. The southern coast stretches to the edge of the Western Sahara while to the north the bulk of Morocco's population fills the foothills of the often snow-capped Atlas Mountains. The mountains provide a buffer against the country's dangerously rowdy eastern neighbour, Algeria.

Between the mountains and Morocco's Atlantic coast are plateaus and plains which are fertile and well watered. In the extreme south, at the edge of the Anti-Atlas, the gorges which, like the rivers that flow at their bases, gradually peter out into the endless sand and stony wastes of the vast Sahara.

The `coolest of the hottest countries', Morocco's colder months are most un-African. In the higher regions in particular, winter conditions can be positively Arctic. In summer, the mountains are hot during the day and cool at night. The rainy season between November and April is something of a misnomer, bringing only occasional light rain.

History Unlike other North African nations, Morocco has been largely occupied by the one people for as long as recorded history can recall. The Berbers, or Imazighen (men of the land), settled in the area thousands of years ago and at one time they controlled all of the land between Morocco and Egypt. Divided into clans and tribes, they have always jealously guarded their independence. It's this fierce independence that has helped preserve one of Africa's most fascinating cultures.

The early Berbers were unmoved by the colonising Phoenicians, and even the Romans did little to upset the Berber way of life after the sack of Carthage in 146 BC. All the same, the Romans ushered in a long period of peace during which many cities were founded, and the Berbers of the coastal plains became city dwellers. Christianity turned up in the 3rd century AD, and again the Berbers asserted their traditional dislike of centralised authority by following Donatus (a Christian sect leader who claimed that the Donatists alone constituted the true church).

Islam burst onto the world stage in the 7th century when the Arab armies swept out of Arabia. Quickly conquering Egypt, the Arabs controlled all of North Africa by the start of the 8th century. By the next century much of North Africa had fragmented, with the move towards a united Morocco steadily growing. A fundamentalist Berber movement emerged from the chaos caused by the Arab invasion, overrunning Morocco and Muslim Andalusia (in Spain). The Almoravids founded Marrakesh as their capital, but they were soon replaced by the Almohads.

Under these new rulers, a professional civil service was set up and the cities of Fès, Marrakesh, Tlemcen and Rabat reached the peak of their cultural development. But eventually weakened by Christian defeats in Spain, and paying the price for heavily taxing tribes, the Muslim (or Moorish) rule began to wane. In their place came the Merenids, from the Moroccan hinterland, and the area again blossomed - until the fall of Spain to the Christians in 1492 unleashed a revolt that dissolved the new dynasty within 100 years.

After a number of short-lived dynasties rose and fell, the Alawite family secured a stranglehold in the 1630s that remains firm to this day. Although it was rarely a smooth ride, this pragmatic dynasty managed to keep Morocco independent for more than three centuries.

Enter the European traders in the late 19th century, and a long era of colonial renovations. Suddenly France, Spain and Germany were all keen on hijacking the country for its strategic position and rich trade resources. France won out and occupied virtually the entire country by 1912. Spain clung to a small coastal protectorate and Tangier was declared an international zone.

Relatively speaking, the first French resident-general, Marshal Lyautey, respected the Arab culture. He generously resisted the urge to destroy the existing Moroccan towns and instead built French villes nouvelles (new towns) alongside them. He made Rabat on the Atlantic coast the new capital and developed the port of Casablanca. The sultan remained, but as little more than a figurehead. Lyautey's successors were not so sensitive. Their efforts to speed French settlement prompted the people of the Rif Mountains, led by the Berber scholar Abd el-Krim, to rise up against both colonial forces. It was only through the combined efforts of 25,000 Spanish-French troops that Abd el-Krim was eventually forced to surrender in 1926. By the 1930s, more than 200,000 French had made Morocco home. WWII saw Allied forces use Morocco as a base from which to drive the Germans out of North Africa.

With the war over, Sultan Mohammed V inspired an independence party which finally secured Moroccan freedom in 1956. Tangier was reclaimed in the process, but Spain refused to hand over the northern towns of Ceuta and Melilla (to this day they remain Spain's last tenuous claim on Africa).

Mohammed V promoted himself to king in 1957 and was succeeded four years later by his son, Hassan II. This popular leader cemented his place in Moroccan hearts and minds by staging the Green March into the Western Sahara, an area formerly held by Spain. With a force of 350,000 volunteers, Hassan's followers overcame the indigenous Sahrawis to claim the mineral-rich region as their own. But by the 1960s it had become clear that the 100,000 or so inhabitants of the `territory' wanted independence. Western Sahara's Popular Front for the Liberation of Saguia al-Hamra and Rio de Oro (Polisario) didn't take kindly to the invasion and embarked on a long and gruesome war of independence against Morocco. In 1991, the United Nations brokered a ceasefire and more recently decided to `remain seized of the matter'. In other words, Western Sahara's official status remains in question thanks to Morocco's continued muscle flexing.

While the Moroccan masses applauded the southern invasion, it left nearby Algeria about as happy as the Western Saharans themselves. Hassan's relations with this particular war-torn neighbour have been poor ever since. Today, despite recent changes to the constitution, Hassan remains as an absolute, and somewhat antique, autocrat.

Economic Profile
GDP: US$87.5 billion
GDP per head: US$3,100
Inflation: 6%
Major industries: Agriculture, manufacturing, fishing, tourism
Major trading partners: France, Spain, Italy, Iraq

Culture From the `standard' Arabic culture, Morocco has developed an elaborate patchwork of artistic traditions. The thread holding it all together is music; from the classical style that developed in Muslim Spain and the storytelling musical traditions of the indigenous Berbers through to the contemporary fusion of African, French, pop and rock. Although identified more with Algeria, rai (opinion) music is a burgeoning force in Morocco. Despite its distinctly Arab-African rhythms (it owes much to Bedouin music), it's probably the most thoroughly westernised style, combining a variety of electrical instruments to create a hypnotic effect.

Morocco's Islamic streak has meant that, compared to most African nations, dance is a fairly low key affair (theoretically, Muslim women are not supposed to boogie). So while the circle dance known as ahidous is ancient and symbolic to the Berbers, there'll be no naked decapitating of chickens here anymore thanks very much.

Crafts are another staple of Morocco. Its Maronquinerie (leatherware) has been a highly prized item among the cargo of traders since the 16th century. An equally rich heritage lives on in the production of carpets, pottery, jewellery, brassware and woodwork.

Painted and sculpted panels for interior decoration are commonplace, and intricate tiled ornamentation still graces the interior of various medersas and other religious buildings and wealthy homes. The mashrabiyya, screens allowing Muslim women to observe the goings-on in the street unseen, survive also. While these items aren't likely candidates for souvenirs, they do serve to show that Moroccan crafts aren't completely dependent on floods of tourists.

From the outside looking in, Morocco has inspired all sorts of artists. The French Neo-Baroque artist Eugene Delacroix devoted bucketloads of paint to Moroccan imagery after a visit in the 1830s. Market scenes, harem life and lion hunts dominated his canvases from this point onwards. And if Delacroix was considered a little over the top at the time, a century later Hollywood was positively beside itself with Morocco-mania. First there was Marlene Dietrich in Morocco. This was followed by the 1942 classic Casablanca. And by the time Peter O'Toole was swanning around Morocco as Lawrence of Arabia, the country had become a gloriously distorted fantasy land for countless western baby boomers.

Spoken Moroccan Arabic (darija) is considerably different from the Arabic spoken in the Middle East. Various Berber dialects are widely spoken in the countryside and particularly in the mountains. Morocco tends to march to its own Islamic drum in terms of customs and way of life, but men remain firmly in charge. The strict segregation of the sexes in public life may be confusingly inconsistent to the visitor. As a rule, it's in the big cities where the most mixing, and the most fashion risks, will be encountered.

Moroccan food is good and solid, without being wildly exciting. The national dish is couscous, finely ground semolina, which usually accompanies a vegetable and lamb casserole. Sweet mint tea is the Moroccan drink of choice, but this doesn't mean the place is teetotal. There's no general ban on alcohol.

Events This is one of those religious frontiers where orthodoxy and local custom have met and compromised. The veneration of saints is frowned on by the orthodox Sunni Muslims but Islam, like Christianity, is made up of many sects and such festivals continue. It's worth asking around for details of festival dates because many don't take place at any fixed time in the western calendar.

Around May there's the Mousseum of Sidi Mohammed M'a al-Anim, an occasion to see the `blue people' (Moors of the Sahara) and the commercial gathering of tribes. The National Folklore Festival of Marrakesh is a 10-day tourist event well worth attending for the dancers, musicians and other entertainers from around the country. In October, the little Northern town of Erfoud hosts a festival in honour of the quintessential desert fruit, the date. Independence Day, one of five national secular holidays, is celebrated on 18 November.

Facts for the Traveller
Visas: Most visitors don't require a visa and are usually issued with a 90-day stamp on entry.
Health risks: Malaria lurks in the northern coastal reaches of Morocco, but generally the country is one of Africa's least daunting healthwise. Medical treatment, however, can be very expensive.
Time: GMT/UTC
Electricity: 220V, 50Hz (110V in some older places)
Weights & measures: Metric
Tourism: 2 million visitors per year

Money & Costs
Currency: Dirham (Dr), divided into 100 centimes
Relative costs:
Budget meal: US$5-10
Mid-range meal: US$10-15
Top-end meal: US$15-30
Reckon on about US$40-50 per day if you want to travel in comfort. Budget travellers prepared to camp or stay in hostels could happily survive on about US$15-20 a day. Expect to pay dearly for the pleasure of beer (around US$3) and other heady imports. Getting around is relatively cheap and there are plenty of options, one of the cheapest (and most rewarding) is cycling.

There's a wide range of banks available for changing money and cashing travellers' cheques and credit cards. Generally, it's quick and easy with rates varying little from bank to bank. Probably the best of the banks is the Banque Marocaine du Commerce Extérieur (BMCE). Cash advances on credit cards and ATM carry a charge of about 1.5%.

Tipping is expected in the swisher eateries. Around 10-15% of your bill is usual. A dirham or two should suffice at the more humble restaurants and cafes. A whole range of other services, some of which you may not notice or want, are also performed with the aim of pocketing a few dirhams. Remember that for many porters, guides, bus stop spruikers and the like, this is how they make a living. On the other hand, aggressive hustling shouldn't be rewarded.

When to Go On the coast the weather is tourist-friendly pretty much all year round, although winter can bring cool and wet conditions in the north. In the lowlands, the cooler months from October to April are popular among visitors. This time of year is pleasantly warm to hot (around 30°C) during the day and cool to cold (around 15°C) at night. Winter in the higher regions demands some serious insulation. If you're heading into the hills, the ski season usually lasts from December to March. For most trekking trips you should book in the high season (June 15 to September 15) or you may find areas full.

Attractions
Rabat The fourth of the imperial cities, Rabat is a curious mix of a long past and a highly modernised present. The city's glory days were in the 12th century, when the then sultan used the kasbah (citadel) as a base for campaigns against the Spanish. It was during this time that the city's most famous landmarks sprang up. A haven for Muslims driven out of Spain in the early 17th century and a capital city only since the days of French occupation, Rabat's ambience comes from Islam and Europe in fairly equal proportions. For every place of worship there are three or four European-style cafes. Few of Rabat's residents are involved in the tourist racket, which means you can stroll through the markets without having to brace yourself against too much high-pressure salesmanship.

The city's most famous site is the Tour Hassan, the incomplete minaret of the great mosque begun by Yacoub al-Mansour. An earthquake brought construction to a halt in 1755. Alongside is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the present king's father. The Kasbah des Oudaias, built on the bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, houses a former palace which is now a museum of traditional art. Beyond the city walls are the remains of the ancient city of Sala. Also known as Chella, it has Morocco's best Archaeology Museum.

Between the city's landmark central park (Jardins Triangle de Vue) and the main train station are most of Rabat's hotels and eating spots. The most obvious cluster of cafes and bars here offer up all the beer, kababs, pizza, olives and ice cream you might need. The Mohammed V international airport is a short ride east of the city and there are plenty of shuttle buses.

Casablanca Of all the cities in all the world, Hollywood chose this one to immortalise as the classic exotic colonial outpost. Those looking for a latter-day Humphrey Bogart round every corner will be disappointed. This is no sleepy dive. Morocco's largest city and industrial centre, it's a huge brash metropolis where traditional Moroccan burnouses (cloaks) seem out of place among the natty suits and designer sunglasses. This port city was deep in decline until the French decided to remodel it with wide boulevards, public parks and imposing Mauresque (Moorish) civic buildings. Casablanca's medina, or ancient quarter, is worth a look and the Hassan II Mosque here is one of the largest in the world. At the square known as the Place Mohammed V you'll find the country's most impressive examples of Mauresque architecture. `Casa' shares the Mohammed V airport with Rabat, and regular flights are available to and from Europe and the Middle East.

Marrakesh One of Morocco's most important cultural centres, Marrakesh is a lively former capital famed for its markets and festivals. Its wildly beating heart is the Place Djemaa el-Fna, a huge square in the old city. Rows of open-air food stalls are set up here and mouth-watering aromas fill the air. Jugglers, storytellers, snake charmers, magicians, acrobats and assorted benign lunatics take over the rest of the space. The souqs (markets) here are among the best in Morocco and a large budget hotel strip makes exploring the old city area cheap and easy.

Among the many attractions of the ancient quarter is the rare Almoravid-style Koubba Ba'adiyn mosque annex, the magnificent Koutoubia mosque and the Palais Dar Si Said (Museum of Moroccan Arts). Trains and buses to this inland city run regularly from Casablanca and Rabat.

Fès The oldest of the imperial cities, Fès is arguably the symbolic heart of Morocco. Its labyrinthine streets and crumbling grandeur add to its air of intrigue and self-importance. The medina of Fès el-Bali (Old Fès) is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world and the gates and walls that surround it make it all the more magnificent. Unlike many walled cities of this vintage, Old Fès hasn't burst its banks. The population has instead exploded out towards the south-west and spread to the hillsides in an arc stretching north and south of the new city.

Within the old city, tucked among roughly 9,400 streets and alleys, is the towering Medersa Bou Inania, a theological college built in 1350. Not far from here the henna souq is a market specialising in the dye used for colouring hair and tattooing women' hands and feet. Next door to the old walled city is Fès el-Jdid, home to the city's Jewish community and many spectacular buildings. In between the two self-contained cities is the Dar Batha, now the Museum du Batha. Fès is best reached by train from Rabat, Marrakesh or Tangier.

Tangier While it's a compelling sort of city and a popular port of entry for tourists, Tangier is also home to some of the world's best hustlers. Perched on Morocco's northern tip, its international flavour remains strong; as does its reputation for inspiring shady deals and foreign misfits.

The city's central Petit Socco is the focus of attention. Back in the days when Tangier was a neutral international zone, this area provided the background for the seediest of lifestyles and it hasn't completely lost this air. It is the kasbah that interests many visitors. It contains the 17th-century Dar el-Makhzen, the former sultan's palace and now a good museum. The nearby American Legation Museum is a fascinating reminder that Morocco was the first country to recognise American Independence. Tangier is five hours from Rabat by train, and an easy ferry ride from Spain or Gibraltar.

Off the Beaten Track

Todra Gorge Near the High Atlas town of Tinerhir, at the end of a lush valley of palms and mud-brick villages hemmed in by barren craggy mountains is one of Morocco's most glorious natural sights. This is the Todra Gorge: some 300m high but only 10m wide at its narrowest point, and with a crystal clear river running through it. Although the main gorge can be explored in half a day, those with more time should head further up the gorge towards Tinerhir. The people here are friendly and there are numerous kasbahs. Rock climbing is becoming increasingly popular on the vertical rock face of the gorge and camping around the base is also an attractive option. There are plenty of hotels in and around the gorge itself. For the more adventurous, a network of difficult pistes links the sporadic villages here in the High and Middle Atlas mountains. Regular buses pass through Tinerhir en route between Marrakesh and Er-Rachidia.

Essaouira This town is the most popular of Morocco's coastal spots with independent travellers, and only rarely do you see package tours here. By the looks of things, however, this won't last forever. Essaouira has a beautiful beach that curves for kilometres to the south. Those who've had enough haggling and jostling in the big cities will be glad to hear this town can be summed up in one word: relaxing. The forts of the old city are a blend of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture, and their massiveness lends a powerful mystique to the town. The Skala du Port, designed to protect the town's sea, has good views and was also where Orson Welles shot some of his film Othello.

Volubilis About 33km from the city of Meknès is the site of the largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Morocco. Volubilis dates largely from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, although excavations have revealed that the site was originally settled by Carthaginian traders even earlier. There's only one hotel nearby, although camping facilities are available.

Tafraoute This unspectacular town about halfway down Morocco's Atlantic coast is a good base for hiking trips in the surrounding hills and to Berber villages. Just outside the town is a rather eccentric array of painted rocks. The Belgian artist behind the strange attraction chose a number of smooth rounded boulders peculiar to the region as his canvas.

Activities There are loads of trekking possibilities in Morocco, one of the most popular being the two-day hike up Jebel Toubkal in the High Atlas mountains. Longer treks include the beautiful trail between Tacheddirt and Imlil, which takes you above the High Atlas snow line. While you're up there, you could consider a spot of skiing. Oukaimeden, about 70km from Marrakesh, is a favourite ski station. Lower altitude outdoor fun includes white-water rafting around the High Atlas, and surf fishing in the south. The winds off the coast of Essaouira are good for surfing, and fantastic for windsurfing. In fact, this spot is often singled out as the place to windsurf.

Getting There & Away With international airports at Casablanca, Tangier and Agadir, Morocco is well linked to Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Taking your own vehicle to Morocco is straightforward. There's a variety of car ferries and jetfoils operating between Algericas in Spain and Morocco's Tangier and Ceuta. There are also ferry trips twice a week from Gibraltar to Tangier.

Getting Around If time is your enemy and you've got a bit cash to splash about, consider the occasional internal flight to make the most of this land. Morocco's Office National des Chemins de Fer (ONCF) operates one of the most modern rail systems in Africa, linking most of the main centres. The trains are generally comfortable, fast and a better option than the buses - if only because sleeping cars are available for many overnight trips. Lines go as far south as Marrakesh. But if you miss the train, the buses are by no means a last-ditch option. The bus network is dense and efficient in most areas. Renting ain't cheap in Morocco, but deals can be struck with the smaller dealers. Petrol (gas) is available pretty much everywhere. Take note that Moroccan roads are festooned with police and customs roadblocks.

The bigger cities have public bus services and the average ticket price is about Dr2. Petits taxis are a common sight in most cities and major towns. They're licensed to carry up to three passengers and can be a useful way to avoid heat exhaustion and/or hustlers.

Text: Courtesy of Lonely Planet