|
 Spain
is a treasure-trove of arts and culture brimming with fabulous flamenco,
music, history, painting, architecture, literature, cinema, sport,
bullfighting and fiestas!
The exuberance of the Spaniards and the glorious predictability of
the summer weather have been attracting refugees from northern Europe's
damp and clammy lands for decades, but Spain is much more than a real
estate coastal strip of nouveau riche holiday homes and warm English
beer.
It is drenched in the historical pageantry of empire and conquistadors,
the artistic legacy of Goya, Velázquez, Picasso and Dalí,
and the romance of Don Quijote, Papa Hemingway and the International
Brigades.
Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Spain
Area: 504,788 sq km
Population: 39.2 million (growth rate 0.2%)
Capital city: Madrid (pop 2,984,576)
People: Spanish (though Catalans and Basques display a fierce
independent spirit)
Language: Castilian Spanish (also Catalan, Galician & Basque)
Religion: 99% Roman Catholic
Government: constitutional monarchy
Prime Minister: José María Aznar
Environment
Spain and Portugal
share the Iberian Peninsula, a vaguely square-shaped realm at the
far south-western edge of Europe. Spain occupies some 80% of this
peninsula and is separated from France by the formidable Pyrenees
mountains. More than half of the country is made up of vast, elevated
tablelands - the mesetas - and five major mountain ranges stretch
across the country. Landscapes range from the deserts of Almería
to the green wetlands of Galicia; from the sunbaked plains of La Mancha
to the rugged mountains of the Picos de Europa; and from the wilds
of Extremadura to the highly developed coastline of Andalucía.
The Canary Islands archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean, west of Morocco,
is an `autonomous community' of Spain.
The prevalence
of an `if you see it, shoot it' philosophy has destroyed much of Spain's
wildlife. The critters that you may still come across are red squirrels,
chamois, red deers, ibexes, marmots and a wide range of reptiles.
Flora is, fortunately, more prolific, especially in the alpine regions.
Most tourists
come to Spain's coastal strip during July and August, when the sun
is at its strongest. Madrid is unbearable at this time of year, and
is almost deserted by Spaniards. In the north, and on the Balearic
Islands, summer temperatures of around 30 degrees Celsius are standard.
In winter, the rains never seem to stop in the north, except in the
backlands of Galicia and the Pyrenees, where they turn into snow.
Generally the north is best during summer, Andalucía is best
in spring, the centre is best in autumn and the south in winter.
History
Located at the
crossroads between Europe and Africa, the Iberian Peninsula has always
been a target for invading races and civilisations. The Romans arrived
in the 3rd century BC but took two centuries to subdue the peninsula.
Gradually Roman laws, languages and customs were adopted. In 409 AD,
Roman Hispania was invaded by a massive contingent of Germanic tribes
and by 419 a Visigothic kingdom had been established. The Visigoths
ruled the kingdom until 711, when the Muslims crossed the Strait of
Gibraltar and defeated Roderick, the last Goth king.
By 714, the Muslim
armies had occupied the entire peninsula, apart from the mountain
regions of northern Spain. The Muslim occupation of southern Spain
(which the Spanish called Al-Andalus) was to last almost 800 years.
During this period, the arts and sciences prospered, new crops and
agricultural techniques were introduced, and palaces, mosques, schools,
gardens and public baths were built. In 722, at Covadonga in northern
Spain, a small army under the Visigothic king Pelayo inflicted the
first defeat on the Muslims. Symbolically, this battle marked the
beginning of the Reconquista, the reconquest of Spain by the Christians.
By the end of
the 13th century, Castilla and Aragón had emerged as Christian
Spain's two main powers, and in 1469 these two kingdoms were united
by the marriage of Isabel, princess of Castilla, to Fernando, heir
to the throne of Aragón. Known as the Catholic Monarchs, they
united all of Spain and laid the foundations for the golden age. In
1478, they established the notoriously ruthless Spanish Inquisition,
expelling and executing thousands of Jews and other non-Christians.
In 1482, they besieged Granada, and 10 years later the last Muslim
king surrendered to them, marking the long-awaited end of the Reconquista.
Spain developed
an enormous empire in the New World, following Colombus' arrival in
the Americas in 1492. Gold and silver came flooding into Spanish coffers
from Mexico and Peru as the conquistadors claimed land from Cuba to
Bolivia. Spain monopolised trade with these new colonies and became
one of the most powerful nations on earth. However, this protectionism
hindered development of the colonies and led to a series of expensive
wars with England, France and the Netherlands.
When Louis XVI
was guillotined in 1793, Spain declared war on the new French republic,
but was defeated. In 1808, Napoleon's troops entered Spain and the
Spanish Crown began to lose its hold on its colonies. Sparked by an
uprising in Madrid, the Spanish people united against the French and
fought a five-year war of independence. In 1813, the French forces
were finally expelled, and in 1814 Fernando VII was restored to the
Spanish throne. Fernando's subsequent 20-year reign was a disastrous
advertisement for monarchy. During his time, the Inquisition was re-established,
liberals and constitutionalists were persecuted, free speech was repressed,
Spain entered a severe economic recession and the American colonies
won their independence.
The disastrous
Spanish-American War of 1898 marked the end of the Spanish empire.
Spain was defeated by the USA in a series of one-sided naval battles,
resulting in the loss of Cuba, Puerto Rico, Guam and the Philippines,
Spain's last overseas possessions. Spain's troubles continued during
the early 20th century. In 1923, with the country on the brink of
civil war, Miguel Primo de Rivera declared himself military dictator
and ruled until 1930. In 1931, Alfonso XIII fled the country, and
the Second Republic was declared, but it soon fell victim to internal
conflict. The 1936 elections saw the country split in two, with the
Republican government and its supporters on one side (an uneasy alliance
of communists, socialists and anarchists, who favoured democracy,
a more equitable civil society and a diminished role for the church)
and the opposition Nationalists (a right-wing alliance of the army,
the Church, the monarchy and the fascist-style Falange Party) on the
other.
The assassination
of the opposition leader José Calvo Sotelo by Republican police
officers in July 1936 gave the army an excuse to overthrow the government.
During the subsequent Civil War (1936-39), the Nationalists received
extensive military and financial support from Nazi Germany and Fascist
Italy, while the elected Republican government received support only
from Russia and, to a lesser degree, from the International Brigades,
made up of intellectuals, artists, writers and the politically committed.
Despite the threat of fascism, England and France refused to support
the Republicans.
By 1939, the
Nationalists, led by Franco, had won the war, in which more than 350,000
Spaniards died. After the war, Republicans were executed, jailed or
forced into exile. Franco's 35-year dictatorship saw Spain isolated
by economic blockades, excluded from NATO and the UN and crippled
by economic recession. It wasn't until the early 1950s, when the rise
in tourism and a treaty with the USA combined to provide much needed
funds, that the country began to recover. By the 1970s, Spain had
the fastest growing economy in Europe.
Franco died in
1975, having earlier named Juan Carlos, the grandson of Alfonso XIII,
his successor. With Juan Carlos on the throne, Spain made the transition
from dictatorship to democracy. The first elections were held in 1977,
a new constitution was drafted in 1978, and a failed military coup
in 1981 was seen as a futile attempt to turn back the clock. In 1982
Spain made a final break with the past by voting in a socialist government
with a sizeable majority. The only major blemish on the domestic front
since has been the terrorist campaign waged by separatist militant
group ETA, which is trying to secure an independent Basque homeland.
During 30 years of terrorist activity, ETA has killed over 800 people
- in September 1998 they announced a cease fire.
In 1986 Spain
joined the EC (now the EU) and in 1992, Spain announced its return
to the world stage, with Barcelona hosting the Olympic Games, Sevilla
hosting Expo 92 and Madrid being declared European Cultural Capital.
In 1996 Spaniards voted in a conservative party under the leadership
of the uncharismatic José María Aznar, an Elton John
fan and former tax inspector. However, the conservatives failed to
gain an overall majority, and only after months of talks managed to
stitch together a coalition with moderate Basque, Catalan and Canary
Islands nationalists.
Economic Profile
GDP:
$548 billion
GDP per head: $14,000
Annual growth: 3.5%
Inflation: 4.3%
Major industries: textiles & apparel, food & beverages, metals
& chemicals
Major trading partners: France, Germany, Italy
Culture
Spain has an
extraordinary artistic heritage. The dominant figures of the golden
age were the Toledo-based artists El Greco and Diego Velázquez.
Francisco Goya emerged in the 18th century as Spain's most prolific
painter and he produced some wonderfully unflattering portraits of
royalty. The art world in the early 20th century was influenced by
a remarkable group of Spanish artists: Pablo Picasso, Juan Gris, Joan
Miró and Salvador Dalí. Spain's architecture ranges
from prehistoric monuments in Menorca in the Balearic Islands, through
to the Roman ruins of Mérida and Tarragona, the decorative Islamic
Alhambra in Granada, Mudéjar buildings, Gothic cathedrals,
castles and palaces, fantastic modernist monuments and Gaudí's
intricate fabulist sculptures.
One of the world's
greatest works of fiction is the 17th-century novel Don Quijote
de la Mancha, written by Spain's Miguel de Cervantes. Important
20th-century writers include Miguel de Unamuno, Federico García
Lorca and Camilo José Cela, winner of the 1989 Nobel Prize
for literature. Women writers have been prolific in the last 25 years
and prominent feminist writers include Adelaida Garcia Morales and
Ana María Matute. Spanish films were once synonymous with the
work of surrealist genius Luís Buñuel, who spent much
of his time abroad. They are now associated with the mad-cap kinky
farces of Pedro Almodóvar, who has enjoyed huge international
success.
Flamenco is experiencing
a revival, and you are sure to see dramatic performances in Andalucía,
its traditional home, accompanied by excellent guitar. You will also
see flamenco at Spanish fiestas, which are not to be missed. Spaniards
are sports crazy and football (or soccer) is huge; try and see a match
because the atmosphere is electric. Bullfighting is also very popular,
despite continued pressure from international animal rights activists.
While Catholicism
is deeply ingrained in all aspects of Spanish society, only about
40% of Spaniards are regular churchgoers. Many Spaniards have a deep-seated
scepticism of the Church; during the Civil War, churches were burnt
and clerics shot because they represented repression, corruption and
the old order.
Spanish food
has a deservedly fantastic reputation and tapas are probably one of
the most civilised inventions since cold beer. Paella, gazpacho and
chorizo may be familiar to most Western diners, but the range of meals
goes well beyond this, with a smorgasbord of rich stews, soups, beans,
seafood and meats, all of which have been influential in Latin American
cooking. It's a good idea to reset your stomach-clock when travelling
in Spain because lunch is usually the main meal of the day, and is
eaten between 1.30 and 4 pm. The evening meal is lighter and is served
between 10 and 11 pm.
Events
In true Spanish
style, cultural events are almost inevitably celebrated with a wild
party and a holiday. Among the festivals to look out for are La
Tamborrada in San Sebastián in February, when the whole
town dresses up and goes berserk. Carnival takes place throughout
the country in late February; the wildest is said to be in Sitges.
In March, Valencia has a week-long party known as Las Fallas,
which is marked by all-night dancing, drinking, first-class fireworks
and colourful processions. Semana Santa (Holy Week) is the
week leading up to Easter Sunday with parades of holy images through
the streets; Sevilla is the place to be if you can get accommodation.
In late April the Feria de Abril in Sevilla is a week-long
party counterbalancing the religious fervour of Semana Santa.
The last Wednesday
in August sees the Valencian town of Buñol go beserk with La
Tomatina, in which the surplus from its tomato harvest is sploshed
around in a riot of friendliest fashion. The Running of the Bulls
(Sanfermines) in Pamplona in July is Spain's most famous festival.
Along the north coast, staggered through the first half of August,
is Semana Grande, another week of heavy drinking and hangovers.
Olé!
Facts for the Traveller
Visas:
Spain, along with Belgium, France, Germany, Luxembourg, the Netherlands
and Portugal forms part of the border-free travel zone known as the
Schengen Area. US, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and Israeli citizens
are among those who may enter Spain as tourists without a visa and
stay up to 90 days. EU passport holders can come and go as they please.
Time: GMT/UTC plus one hour
Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz AC
Weights & measures: metric
Tourism: 45.1 million visitors
Money &
Costs
Currency:
peseta
Exchange rate: US$1 = 144 pta
Relative costs:
Budget meal: US$4-8
Restaurant meal:
US$10-15 Spain
is one of Europe's more affordable countries. If
you are particularly frugal it's just about possible to scrape by on
US$20-25 a day. This would involve staying in the cheapest possible
accommodation, avoiding eating in restaurants or going to museums or
bars, and not moving around too much. A more comfortable budget would
be US$40 a day. Travellers' cheques can be cashed at banks and exchange
offices, and usually attract a slightly higher exchange rate than cash.
Credit cards are widely accepted at hotels and restaurants, especially
from the middle range up, and also for long-distance train tickets.
These days, even smaller towns have an ATM (cajero automático)
where you can withdraw pesetas from credit and debit accounts. Be careful
carrying your money, whether it's jingling or plastic as tourists are
a major target of theft - 200,000 British credit cards and cash cards
went missing in Spain in just four months (June to September) in 1995.
In restaurants the law requires menu prices to include service charge,
and tipping is a matter of personal choice - most people leave some
small change if they're satisfied and 5% is usually plenty. It's common
to leave small change at bar and café tables. Markets and cheap
hotels are the only places in Spain where you are likely to bargain.
When to GoThe ideal months to visit are May, June and September (plus
April and October in the south). At these times you can rely on good
weather, yet avoid the sometimes extreme heat - and the main crush of
Spanish and foreign tourists. That said, there's decent weather in some
part of Spain virtually year-round. Winter along the southern and south-eastern
Mediterranean coasts is mild, while in the height of summer you can
retreat to the north-west, or to beaches or high mountains anywhere,
if you need to get away from excessive heat. If you want to make sure
you hit some parties, the best festivals are concentrated between Semana
Santa (the week leading up to Easter Sunday) and October. Attractions
Madrid
Madrid may not have
the glamour or user-friendliness of Barcelona, but what it lacks in
style it more than makes up for in substance, with a remarkable collection
of museums and galleries, beautiful parks and gardens and wild nightlife.
The most fitting
place to start getting to know Madrid is at Puerta del Sol. Sol, as
it is known to locals, is not much more than a huge traffic-junction-cum-bus-stop,
but it's as central as you can get. Although Madrid is an enormous
metropolis, the region which is of most interest to travellers is
confined by Campo del Moro in the west and Parque del Buen Retiro
in the east. The most exciting street is Gran Vía, but Plaza
Mayor is the true heart of Madrid.
Be sure not to
miss one of the greatest art galleries in the world, the Museo
del Prado, where the main emphasis is on Spanish, Flemish and
Italian art from the 15th to 19th century. Goya is well represented
and you'll find a wealth of paintings by Diego Velázquez. If
you haven't run out of steam after the Prado, the Casón
del Buen Retiro houses an excellent collection of 19th-century
Spanish art. For one of the best art history lessons you'll ever get,
check out the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, a private assembly
of paintings from Titian to Pollock. The Museo de la Escultura
Abstracta, has an interesting collection of abstracts by some
of Spain's better known modern sculptors, including Chillida and Miró.
The beautiful Real Jardin Botánico, near the Prado,
is a good spot to recover from an art overdose.
For the little
bit of interior decorator in everyone, visit the Palacio Real,
if only as a lesson in what can happen when you give yourself free
reign - you'll see some of the most elaborately decorated walls and
ceilings imaginable. If you've ever got stuck renovating a house,
take heart in the stark and cavernous Catedral de Nuestra Señora
de la Almudena. It opened to the public in 1992 after only 110
years under construction.
Madrid is the
home of the world's largest bullring, Plaza de Toros Monumental
de las Ventas, and is one of the best places to see a bullfight
(corrida) - if you're so inclined. For something a little less
cruel to animals, check out a football match when local favourites
Real Madrid or Atlético de Madrid are playing at home. If you're
in town on a Sunday morning, snaffle a bargain at El Rastro,
one of the biggest flea markets you are ever likely to see. This is
said to be the place to go if you want to buy your stereo back, so
watch your pockets and bags.
Finding a place
to stay in Madrid is never really a problem. In summer the city is
drained of people, thanks to the horrific heat, so if you are mad
enough to be here then, you may well be able to make a hot deal on
the price. At other times it is still worth trying to bargain if you
intend to stay a while. The Santa Ana area is one of Madrid's most
popular places to stay and it's close to good restaurants and nightclubs.
The epicentre of Madrid's nightlife is Plaza del Dos de Mayo,
in the area known as Malasaña.
Barcelona
If you only visit
one city in Spain, it probably should be Barcelona. It's sophisticated,
elegant and romantic, but has the energy and raffishness of a port city.
The inspiring and unique architecture of Antoni Gaudí is evident
in buildings such as the Sagrada Família church and Parc
Güell, and its world-class museums include Museu Picasso
and the Fundació Joan Miró. There is a fascinating
old quarter, the Barri Gòtic, and a night scene to rival any
in the country.
As a starting
point, the area around La Rambla, Plaça de Sant Josep
Oriol and the Plaça Reial is where you'll pick up
the vibe of the city. There's a buzz of activity and a constant stream
of people promenading and enjoying the scene. There are hundreds of
cafés, bars, shops and sights to take your fancy.
In the north
of the city, the fantasy land of Parc Güell showcases
Gaudí's work. If you miss this place, you will have missed
a huge part of the essence of Barcelona. For more modernism, try the
Passeig de Gràcia and its surrounds; for the best modern
art museum in Spain, head to the Fundació Joan Miró.
Barcelona has
an imposing Gothic cathedral, where each Sunday at noon crowds
gather for the performance of the sardana, a traditional Catalan
dance. Just east of the cathedral is the fascinating Museu d'Història
de la Ciutat (City History Museum) which features a subterranean
walk through excavated portions of Roman and Visigothic Barcelona.
For retail therapy,
the markets are great places to shop. The best are the Els Encants,
a good second-hand market at Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes;
the antiques market on Plaça Nova; and the crafts
market at Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol. There are also enough
chic boutiques to keep the fashion-conscious happy for weeks.
When you're all
shopped out, there's always food and drink to pass the time. Barcelona
has a seemingly endless variety of bars which are much more than just
watering holes. The greatest concentration of bars and restaurants
is within walking distance of La Rambla. The best cheap places to
stay are in the old city, on either side of La Rambla.
Toledo
Toledo is one of
Spain's most magnificent historical monuments. It's an intact medieval
city of narrow winding streets perched on a small hill above the Río
Tajo. The city is crammed with fascinating museums, galleries, churches
and castles. Unfortunately, it is also crammed with daytrippers, so
travellers wanting to enjoy the city should stay overnight and explore
in the evening and early morning to see it at its best. The dominant
Alcázar has been the scene of military battles from the
Middle Ages right through to the 20th century. The awesome cathedral,
in the heart of the city, harbours glorious murals, stained-glass windows
and works by El Greco, Velázquez and Goya. Other attractions
include the city's two synagogues, the Iglesia de Santo Tomé
(which contains El Greco's greatest masterpiece, The Burial of the
Count of Orgaz) and the Museo de Santa Cruz. Archaeologists
working on Toledo's Carranque recently uncovered a 4th century
basilica, Spain's oldest.
Valencia
Spain's third-largest
city, and capital of the province of Valencia, comes as a pleasant surprise
to many. Home to paella and the Holy Grail, it is also blessed with
great weather and the spring festival of Las Fallas, one of the wildest
parties in the country.
One of Valencia's
most raved about attractions is the baroque Palacio de Marqués
de Dos Aguas. The façade is extravagantly sculpted and
the inside is just as outrageous. The Museo de Bellas Artes
ranks among the best museums in the country and contains works by
El Greco, Goya, Velázquez and a number of Valencian impressionists.
The Institute of Modern Art houses an impressive collection
of 20th-century Spanish art. Valencia's cathedral is also worth
a visit. Climb to the top of its tower for a great view of the sprawling
city.
Granada
During the period
of Muslim domination of Spain, Granada was the finest city on the peninsula.
Today it is still home to the greatest Muslim legacy in Europe, and
one of the most inspiring attractions on the Continent - the Alhambra.
La Alhambra
is one of the greatest accomplishments of Islamic art and architecture,
and is simply breathtaking. Much has been written about the fortress,
the palace, its patios and gardens, but somehow nothing can really
prepare you for it. The Alcazaba is the Alhambra's Muslim fortress
dating from the 11th to the 13th centuries, with great views of the
city from the tops of its towers. The Casa Real is the centrepiece
of the Alhambra, and is noted for the intricacy of its stonework.
Finally, there is the Generalife - the summer palace of the
sultans, set in the soul-soothing Alhambra gardens.
Granada's biggest
attraction after the Alhambra is the city itself which is set against
the mountain backdrop of the Sierra Nevada. Simply wandering around
the narrow streets of the Albaicín, the city's old Muslim
quarter, across the river from the Alhambra, or the area around Plaza
Bib-Rambla is a real pleasure. Stop by the Casa del Castril
(Archaeological Museum) and Baños Árabes (Arab
Baths), and the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) in which Fernando
III and Isabel, the Christian conquerors of Granada in 1492, are buried.
Next door to the chapel is Granada's cathedral, which dates
from the early 16th century. The Gypsy caves of Sacromonte,
dug into a hillside in the north of the city, are another popular
attraction.
Sevilla
Sevilla is one
of the most exciting cities in Spain, with wonderful parks and gardens,
Muslim monuments, flamenco, bullfights and a large and lively student
population. Expo 92 brought the city into the international spotlight.
If you really want to experience Sevilla at its best, try to come
for Semanta Santa (the week before Easter) or the Feria de Abril (in
April) - a truly unforgettable experience.
Sevilla's immense
cathedral is listed in the Guinness Book of Records
as having an area greater than any other in the world. This immense
structure is primarily Gothic, though the work done after its central
dome collapsed in 1511 was mostly in Renaissance style. The climb
to the adjoining tower, known as the Giralda, is well worth the effort
for the great views of the city. Check out the Alcázar,
a magnificent palace dating from the Moorish times of Spain; and the
Archivo de Indias, which houses over 40 million documents dating
from 1492 through to the decolonisation of the Americas.
Other attractions
are the Parque de María Luisa, which has a maze of paths,
garden beds, pretty little patios, fountains and shaded lawns; the
Museo Arqueológico, which has an interesting collection
of broken statues and bronze tablets; and the rather kitsch Museo
de Artes y Costumbres Populares.
San Sebastián
San Sebastián
is stunning. Famed as a ritzy resort for wealthy Spaniards who want
to get away from the hordes in the south, it has been a stronghold
of Basque nationalist feeling since well before Franco banned the
use of Euskera, the Basque language, in the 1930s. Donostia, as the
city is known in Euskera, is a surprisingly relaxed town with a population
approaching 180,000. Those who live here consider themselves the luckiest
people in Spain and will not hesitate to tell you so. After spending
a few days on the beaches in preparation for the wild evenings, you
may well begin to appreciate their unbashful claim.
The Playa
de Concha, and its continuation at Ondarreta, is one of the most
beautiful city beaches in Spain. You can swim from Ondarreta to Isla
de Santa Clara, in the middle of the bay, and in summer, a number
of rafts are anchored at the halfway point to serve as rest stops
for the daring.
The Museo
de San Telmo, in a 16th-century monastery, has a bit of everything
- ancient tombstones, sculptures, agriculture and carpentry displays,
a wonderful fine arts collection - and the squeakiest floors in Spain.
Overlooking Bahía de Concha is Monte Urgull, which is
topped by a statue of Christ and has stunning views.
Balearic Islands
Floating in the blue
waters of the Mediterranean off the east coast of Spain, the Balearic
Islands are invaded every summer by a massive multinational force of
hedonistic tourists. Not surprising really, when you consider the fine
beaches, relentless sunshine and wild nightlife. What is surprising
is how the islands have managed to maintain their integrity, identity
and strong links with the past. Beyond the discos and beaches are Gothic
cathedrals, Stone Age ruins, small fishing villages, and endless olive
groves and orange orchards. There are four islands, the biggest is Mallorca,
followed by Menorca, Ibiza and tiny Formentera. Formentera is the least
developed; Ibiza attracts party animals, gays, hippies and fashion victims
- it's one of the world's bizarre melting pots.
Off the Beaten
Track
Las Hurdes
Nowhere in Spain
has been untouched by tourism, but Las Hurdes in mountainous northern
Extremadura comes about as close to being untarnished as possible. It
also happens to be extremely beautiful. Time has not quite stood still,
but it has certainly slowed right down, and many people still live in
the traditional stone houses that are unique to this corner of Spain.
It's an area of picturesque hamlets, waterfalls and fine walks, but
you'll need a car to explore it properly.
Zaragoza
Zaragoza, capital
of Aragón, is often said to be the most Spanish city in Spain.
The city's appeal lies in the fact that it has been left relatively
untouched by tourism: most travellers know it only as a train station
on the way from Barcelona to Madrid. Those who take the time to get
off the train are rarely disappointed. The old town is full of authentic
Spanish restaurants, and Aragonese cooking is superb. Attractions
include the Aljafería, the greatest Moorish edifice
outside Andalucía, the Roman Forum of ancient Caesaraugusta,
and the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar.
Teruel
Located in the deep
south of Aragón, Teruel has maintained an atmosphere all its
own. It is best known for its Mudéjar architecture and the flavour
left by the many centuries of Moorish domination. Teruel has four magnificent
Mudéjar towers: the cathedral of Santa María and
the churches of El Salvador (13th century), San Martín
and San Pedro (14th century). Note the inlaid stones and colourful
tiles which are so typical of the style. The Museo Provincial de Teruel
has a fascinating archaeological collection going back to the days of
Homo erectus.
Activities
Skiing
is cheap and the facilities and conditions are surprisingly good.
The season runs from December to May and the most accessible resorts
are in the Sierra Nevada, the Pyrenees and in the ranges north of
Madrid. Spain is a trekking paradise, especially in the Pyrenees
and the Picos de Europa in northern Spain.
Cycling
is popular but there are deterrents, like the often-mountainous terrain,
crowded roads and summer heat. Take your pick of the hundreds of beaches
offering fine swimming, but be prepared to tiptoe over package
tourists during summer. The coast of the País Vasco has good
surf.
Getting There
& Away
Spain has many
international airports, including Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, Santiago
de Compostela, Sevilla, Granada, Málaga, Almería, Alicante,
Valencia, Palma de Mallorca, Ibiza and Maó. Bus and train travel
are other good options and there are regular bus services to Spain
from all major centres in Europe, including Lisbon, London and Paris.
Travelling to Spain by train can be more expensive than by bus unless
you are under 26 or have a rail pass. Ferry services connect Spain
directly with the UK and Morocco. A departure tax applies when flying
out of Spain, but this is included in the price of the ticket at purchase.
Getting Around
The only time
you might seriously consider flying within Spain is to get out to
the islands. From Barcelona, Valencia or Alicante, there are often
good deals on charter flights. Ferries regularly connect the mainland
with the Balearic Islands, but flying is better value considering
the time saved. There are plenty of bus routes serviced by dozens
of independent companies, and the bus network is more extensive than
the train system and cheaper. Walking is the best way to meet the
locals.
Text
courtesy of Lonely Planet
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